Building a Foundation

Lots of busy women tell me that they are too busy to wear makeup, and that they don't like it. What a shame, for a little bit of well placed and chosen foundation, concealer, mascara, lipstick and a few other things can give a face, particularly a colorless or aging one, brightness and life, as well as polish.You choose your clothing to flatter, and your face should also look finished.

I get it, who needs a lengthy, elaborate routine? Unless you are a Las Vegas showgirl, or appearing on television or in films, your morning ritual can be simple and short.

Heavy, cakey unnatural foundations are a thing of the past. Tinted moisturizers, BB Creams, Mineral foundations in loose powder and compact forms are all great options for light coverage, natural look and feel, and ease of use.

Here are some of the best choices for simple coverage that looks and feels great.

BB Creams...these were born in Asia and originally designed as blemish care that not only covered but treated problem skin with healthy ingredients. Makeup that's good for your skin! They can be drying, though, and are not for every skin type. The BB Creams that have grown popular in the USA are not as drying and are more like a tinted moisturizer, with a few great new ingredients like antioxidants,etc. Here the B stand for Beauty Balms.,,and they offer light coverage.

My faves are Dr. Jart's, a Korean brand that makes 4 different formulas for different skin (or if you're like me, skin that varies under different climates/conditions) 

A USA type that really goes on smooth and easy with a great natural look, Urban Decay NAKED SKIN Beauty Balm.

I reach for this next item most of all...it is so light and simple to use, yet makes your skin look perfect. Miracle Skin Transformer by Sarah McNamara...with spf 20 too! A must have on my vanity.

Very similar in texture to MST is Guerlain's Terracotta Skin Healthy Glow, a lightweight tinted moisturizer that evens skin tone and makes it glow.

Another brilliantly smooth, natural looking tinted moisturizer that has moderate coverage is in the pricey but wonderful French line (think Barney's and Neiman Marcus) CHANTECAILLE.       
JUST SKIN has spf 15.

More traditional textures can be found in FRESH Umbrian Clay Freshface Foundation. Great texture and coverage....and in Guerlain Terracotta Tinted Moisturizer.

For a bare skin effect, try French brand NUXE Moisturizing Tinted Cream. Very emollient.

My favorite powder mineral foundation is by Jane Iredale..the Amazing Base. Not much staying power with this type of foundation, but easy to use and natural looking.

A great new compact version of their well known mineral foundation, BAREMINERALS READY is great! I reach for it often.

To set makeup for a long day or a special evening, my favorite powder for years and years is one few Americans know about, a Korean and Japanese brand called PALGANTONG. It's named Theatrical Powder but it isn't showy at all... in fact it is SO feather light, like air, perfect for making everything last and look natural, not cakey.

 

Hard working FEET

I spent many years, 25+, as a professional singer, working 5-6 days a week performing in lounges, bars, clubs, restaurants, hotels, etc. High heels and energetic dancing and moving for 4-5 hours per night kept my body and legs in great shape...but ruined my feet! Any part of the body that is constantly involved in friction...like hands and fingers, heels and soles of feet...defends itself by developing thickened skin, or calluses. Now, if you play guitar or any stringed instrument, you want callouses on your fingers to pad them and prevent pain. But with feet, you end up with leathery, dried out, unsightly skin,  thick calluses, cracked heels, corns, etc.

In recent years I have tried to undo the damage of all that friction with regular professional pedicures as well as maintenance at home. I can really only make a temporary difference; it seems after a short time they just get awful again. I've tried so many foot products that promise soft, lovely feet but just don't deliver results. But here are a few insights into making your feet, which are probably a lot nicer than mine, as soft as smooth as possible, and keeping those calluses at bay.

Make a paste of 6 crushed aspirin (they contain salicylic acid, which helps melt callouses) and 1/2 tsp of lemon juice, soak feet in hot water for 10 minutes, apply and cover with warm towels or warm sweat sox, let sit for 10 minutes. That should soften the calluses enough to allow removal with a pumice stone or pumice scrubber. The Swissco Pumice Sponge Block works well for this job.

They do sell liquids with salicylic acid that work too, like the Mosco or Dr. Scholl's brand.

I also love a foot file...there are many of them out there but my favorite is Diamancel #11.

For regular maintenance of calluses, the Ped Egg works well, though do it over a towel as it can be messy. I have this version and I like it...

They came out with a new one that has a handle, which I'm dying to try, might make the job a bit easier.

 

Don't bother with the Pedi Spin, an automated version of this device...the reviews are terrible and I believe them. Good old manual effort is way more effective than a tiny motor that stops when you apply any real pressure. You NEED to apply pressure when filing dead skin off of your feet!

After your calluses have softened and you've pumiced or filed them away, the next and very important step is moisturizing with a heavy duty treatment cream or ointment. I am loving one
from Soap and Glory called Heel Genius that I found at Sephora.

I also LOVE two ointments that really sink in, soften and smooth. One is available online and at health food stores, Herbal Authority Tea Tree Oil Ointment.

The BEST-discovered at a spa that used it on my pedicure and recommended it for overnight use with a pair of socks. Woodsprite Overnight Sensation...contains Shea and Cocoa Butters, Sweet Almod Oil, Sesame and Avocado Oils, Tea Tree and Sweet Birch Oils, Vitamin E...all organic.

Great Skincare-my favorite serums and moisturizers

There a a zillion moisturizers on the market. So many products, so little time...and most of them with big promises that rarely deliver. As an oily/combo skinned person, except in Winter when I get drier, I don't care for the heavy creams and lotions. They clog my pores and make me break out. I use moisturizers sparingly, and much prefer the thinner serums and light lotions that have become available in recent years. Although the drugstore chains carry many good products, I have gotten most (but not all) of my favorites from other sources-estheticians, Sephora, and even HSN.

To start this off, my favorite breakout prevention and treatment products. Even though I'm 55, I still get minor breakouts, especially on my nose where my pores are larger.

Peter Thomas Roth makes great products...cutting edge technology and ingredients. The Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10% Hydrating Gel works. Can be drying, use sparingly, but does the job it promises.

Avene Diacneal Treatment care will prevent breakouts used overnight. Great stuff, a staple in my skincare arsenal.I have learned it was recently discontinued and the new replacement is called Triacneal. I hope the formula hasn't changed too much, for it was a great product. Many dermatologists recommend the Avene line.

Skinceuticals are remarkable products also recommended by doctors. Their serums are fantastic and very effective. I use the Blemish and Age Defense
serum, as well as the Phloretin CF.

An excellent esthetician that I visited for a facial once used Wilma Schumann products,a European line. They are superbly formulated, ultra lightweight yet hydrating. Two that I love and use freely are Collagen 2000 and O2 Oxygen Blue.

 

 At Home Shopping Network there is a skincare line that is very popular called Signature Club A. It is energetically oversold by Adrienne, an aging makeup artist entrepeneur. I'm not a fan of their formulas generally, as they contain lots of heavy pore clogging ingredients...but...the 24 Hour Skin Care Capsule Collection is amazing. Each dose is in little tiny capsules and there is a range of great options, Vitamin C, Retinol,Platinum MatrixEM, Argan Oil, and capsules for eyes and lips. This should be on every vanity table across America!

DRUGSTORE FIND!! Look for Merlot Grape Seed Moisturizer...antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, awesome! Got mine at drugstore.com...but the product line has a website too, merlotskincare.com...I like this line a lot. Not expensive and wonderful texture.

Back to high priced specialty store lines...like Perricone MD...I really love the results of the Cold Plasma line. I have all three types, but the regular and eye cream are HG status products.

 

 

And another great product from Boscia...Revitalizing Hydra-lift. Super for tossing on quickly after washing the face.

And one last winner-this little tube is great to slip into the lines around eyes and lips. Kiehl's Double Strength Deep Wrinkle Filler.

Masques and Serums and Creams, ooh la la!

MASQUES!!
Every skin can benefit from a masque...they deep cleanse and clarify, they can help heal blemishes, balance oiliness, add moisture. They also help remove the dead skin cells on the surface revealing fresh, brightened, rejuvenated skin!

Peel Off masks are nice for young skin, but they are too traumatic for older skin. I don't use them. Here are a few options that I do use and love.

My Beauty Diary is a company whose made-in-Taiwan masks address a number of issues and provide some of today's advanced ingredients. Good for all skin types, especially mature skin.
The Black Pearl is very popular, and the Q-10 and Aloe masks are great as well.

The next few masques are best for oily, combination, or blemished or blemish prone skin.

 

My current fave is available at Sephora and other places too...GLAM GLOW Super-mud Clearing Treatment. This nasty, messy greenish gray mud hardens pretty quickly and when you scrub it off (use a cheap rough cotton washcloth that you can save for this purpose alone for it will stain) beautiful clarity is revealed.

But it's closely followed in awesomeness by an unlikely winner from the Serious Skincare line (whose products I don't generally care for) available at hsn.com, the TV shopping channel. Called GLYCOLIC GOMMAGE extreme renewal, this is a miracle tube! I got a sample, tried it, and was sold...got a tube on eBay.com and I adore it. When you go to rinse this gritty greenish gray clay mask, some of the grit remains and helps scrub the skin. This might be rough on sensitive skin, but for most people it is fantastic. It will remove the worst flaky, dead skin and leave your skin new and glowing. I never want to run out of this item!

Kiehl's Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Masque is a great clay mask for oilier skin types. It has a smooth, light tan-gray color and texture and rinses off to reveal smaller pores and brighter tone.

Found this next one in a French Pharmacie, which are fabulous places for skin care junkies like me! It's called Cattier Paris Masque Argile Green Clay Mint..they make other formulas as well, but this one suits my skin best. Kind of a refined, improved version of Queen Helene's Mint Julep Masque, a very inexpensive option for those of us on a budget...not the best texture (Cattier is pretty reasonable but hard to find except online or in France!) but it works well and can be found at any drugstore or beauty supply.

If you have blemishes, this tingly and fabulous mask will help clear your skin and tighten things up as it does that. I adore Tea Tree Oil as a skincare ingredient, and this smooth, clear, creamy white masque uses it to your advantage. Arcona Tea Tree Mask- Pricey but great.

 

 

For other skin types besides oily and combination skin, I suggest using moisturing masques that sooth and infuse the skin with key ingredients that nourish and even plump out the surface a bit. I use them in Winter when the indoor heat dries out my usually not-dry skin.

My favorite of these is a French brand that is hypoallergenic and pure, Avene Instant Soothing Moisture Mask.

A great option, and French too, is Sothys Masque Hydra-Nourrissant.

For a fresh clean face, best in summer and hot weather climates, Peter Thomas Roth (whose products are top notch) Cucumber Gel Masque will tighten and tone gently.
 Currently one of the most popular skin treatments, kind of a mask, is the Brazilian Peel. It comes in four individual treatment, and used once a week, is an effective at-home Glycolic facial that is safe for your skin.

I will conclude with a great skin treatment that is part mask, part peel. It comes from Ole Henriksen and is a 3 step/product process. It's called the Micro Mini Peel System, and first you use an almond scrub, then a lemon strip mask, and then a calming chamomile fluffy cream. This is a spa treatment that you can do at home, and it works very well to reveal smooth, radiant skin.

 

More of my favorite things!

As someone who tries a lot of different products, these are some of the most effective ones that I recommend to others as worth trying. So many others have gone by the wayside over the past 10 years, but these great items that I've discovered from various sources in various places have proved themselves.

A few more CLEANSERS....my previous post lists the cleansers that I reach for most, but here are a few more that I really like.
Murad Clarifying Cleanser is a gel that really gets skin uber clean...best used in summer or in tropical climates. A bit too stripping for Winter or for skin that is dry.

A super Drugstore-available item, Yes to Cucumbers, makes a Daily Gel Cleanser that is gentle enough for any kind of skin, but gets the soil off leaving the skin naturally moist. Excellent choice for your budget and for an eco-friendly choice. Reminds me a lot of FRESH Soy Cleanser for a fraction of the cost.

Another great Gel based cleanser that is gentle enough for the most sensitive skin, yet cleans thoroughly, is Avene Diacneal soap-free gel cleanser.Great for oily, blemish prone skin. Another one I use mainly in summer or when in the tropical climate of my second home in St. Maarten.

The SUKI line of products are wonderful, though pricey. I LOVE the SUKI Exfoliate Foaming Cleanser...a natural product made with lemongrass extract and sugar. Great for those flakies, and to invigorate a tired, dull complexion.

TONERS...I'm not HUGE on toners...often they seem like an unnecessary step to me, unless your skin is oily or your cleanser leaves an unpleasant film (try one of the gels I recommend and you won't need a toner!)...in fact, I use them only from time to time, or as a refresher in lieu of a full cleanse on the go. Here are 4 of them that I do love and keep on hand.

DHC Acerola Lotion is not a lotion at all....it's a Japanese innovation that has Vitamin C and is a clear liquid. One bottle lasts forever, since you use 6-8 drops each time. Great as a pick-me-up for your skin.

SUKI strikes again! My favorite toner, hands down! Smells amazing, doesn't strip, refreshed and cleanses. SUKI Concentrated Balancing Toner is awesome.

Jurlique Rosewater Balancing Mist is the gentlest option I offer, delicate and pleasant. This Aussie line has many great herbal, natural options but this toner is superb, especially for dry skin.

The items above are admittedly pricey and hard to find other than online. For those looking for an inexpensive, readily available toner, your local drugstore holds a classic that is still a staple in my cabinet. T.N. Dickinson's Witch Hazel. Great for blemished skin, or just to cleanse quickly and gently. It doesn't smell great, the bottle is not fancy, but it's effective.

I use these small round "wipes" to clear and prevent breakouts on cleansed skin. I LOVE Tea Tree Oil, believe in it as the best antiseptic and bacteria clearing product of all! More Tea Tree products to try...Tea Tree Oil on toes to treat/prevent fungus, and Dr. Bronners Tea Tree Oil Soap...great for face, body, and for personal cleansing.

Another great all-purpose organic cleanser that is economical, effective for face and body, is Dr. Woods Shea Vision Pure Black Soap with Organic Shea Butter. I have always used Dr. Bronner's Peppermint Oil soap, since I was 18 (38 years ago!!) but lately I am going with Dr. Woods Soaps...they have a Peppermint Soap as well that is excellent.

My next blog post will cover MY FAVORITE beauty treatments...MASKS!!! Facial masks can do many wonderful things for your skin and I use mine regularly. Then on to creams and serums....